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Prose and Images by Bennett Cain

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Rural Isolation in Laos

Bennett Cain July 5, 2016

Instastory originally published on Instagram 12/24/14.

Laos is a remote and sparsely populated country in Southeast Asia wedged between Myanmar, Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, and China and sharing cultural similarities with all of them throughout its geography. While wholesale deforestation has been reported in places, there is still much unspoiled, natural beauty to discover here. Sights such as these natural waterfalls near Luang Prabang city are common all over the country. 

While traveling in Asia, "homestays", where one sleeps and eats in the house of a local family, usually in a remote area, are an excellent way to immerse yourself in the culture. I've done homestays in China, Vietnam, India, and Laos have had incredibly rewarding experiences because of them that would have never happened staying on the beaten tourist trail.

The homestay that I did in Laos in November 2014 was in a very remote village in the northern highlands called  accessible only by way of the Mekong River. The journey takes threes days on a traditional Lao river boat without electricity or other conveniences. 

This is the captain of the river boat. He, his wife, and their sons live on it year round and earn their living taking travelers and goods back and forth between Laos and northern Thailand. 

This disabled man was one of the captain's sons and he helped with serving meals docking the boat. He was fascinated watching me process photos in Lightroom so I took a quick snap and pulled it in to show him. I don’t think he had ever seen a picture of himself so was a little taken back by it. It was very touching. Though smartphones are becoming prevalent around the world, even in the most remote, I've been to a few places so far off the grid it's like traveling back in time. This was one of them.

Throughout Southeast Asia, religion and ethnicity is a complicated topic because of the many wars and social strife it's caused in the region. The diversity of peoples and their languages, religions, and cultural practices in this part of the world is staggering. Though it varies wildly from country to country, the treatment of minorities by the majority has been rife with mistreatment, exploitation, and human rights abuses. Small tribal groups in remote rural areas are particularly vulnerable. In Laos alone there are 160 recognized ethnic groups but the three biggest are the Lao, Hmong, and the Khmu, who account for about 11% of the population and live mainly in the highlands. The village I stayed in is called Dongchieng and is a tiny Khmu settlement only accessible coming in boat on the Mekong. 

The Lao people make up in the majority of Laos and practice the Theravada Buddhism found throughout most of the rest of Southeast Asia. The Hmong and Khmu practice an ancient, indigenous animist religion ofancestor worship, shamanic magic, and the belief in nature and house spirits. These religious practices are wildly different than those of the Buddhist majority and puts them somewhat outside of mainstream society. 

The communist government of Laos mostly leaves isolated communities like this one alone although it's known they install the tribal and village leadership themselves to ensure loyalty to the party. There seems to be very little human development happening here though, the livelihood coming from age old subsistence level farming practices. There is a school here so some education is available though most young people spend their time in the fields with their parents. Another problem in not just Laos but in many poor rural part of Southeast Asia is young women finding their way into prostitution. 

This village was crawling with domesticated creatures - chickens, birds, goats, dogs, and everything is on the menu. 

Dongchieng village is so far off the grid that infrastructure is almost non-existent. Water is from wells and rainwater catchments; their limited electricity comes from solar cells, batteries, and gas generators. This remains the only place I’ve ever been where I didn't see any cell phones or computers though someone here surely has them. If there's any place in the world that can fairly be deemed "the middle of nowehere" it's here. The only real source of income for these people is from surplus agriculture and what they can get from these homestays. They have very little; enough for their basic needs but there is always a palpable sadness in such poverty. 

This is Mr. Tong, the Khmu guide on this homestay. He left a village like Dongchieng as a young person and became a Buddhist monk for eight years to seek an education. He recently rejoined the secular life to start a family and become a professional. In Theravada, the Buddhism of Southeast Asia, monks are free to leave the order and return as they please. Spending some time as a monk is part of many young men's experience in this part of the world. In Mahayana, the Buddhism of the Far East, ordination is a lifelong vow and to leave after taking vows brings enormous shame to both the individual and their family. Throughout my travels in Asia I was lucky to meet many people like Tong who were very gracious and happy to teach foreigners about their culture. 


In Documentary Photography, Travel Photography, Travel Writing, Ethnography, Ethnographic Photography, Photo Essay Tags Asia, Laos
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Nam Ou River Elephant Sanctuary, Laos

Bennett Cain July 5, 2016

Originally published on Instagram December 3, 2014.

I wasn’t sure I wanted to visit the Nam Ou Elephant Sanctuary near Luang Prabang in Laos. When traveling in Southeast Asia you see advertisements for elephant shows in all countries. On them are pictures of the animals walking around on their hind legs, kicking soccer balls, and having their backs overloaded with heavy tourists. I heard a lot about the mistreatment in places like this like during the high season they're often worked to the point of exhaustion.

Throughout Asia the concept of animal welfare is a relatively new one. Many cultures here historically do not hold the value that wildlife has the right to exist undisturbed. They view anything in nature as something there for their own use. These are very deeply seeded beliefs and I saw countless displays of it in the two months I spent traveling in China and have been reminded of the sentiment throughout Southeast Asia. Because of this, I had a lot of apprehension about taking part in any kind “elephant experience” here.

But then I learned there are basically no wild elephants left in Laos. The ancient name for this county was Lan Xang which means "Land of One Million Elephants." Today there are about 1,000 and over 70% of this remaining population have been put to work in inaccessible deep jungle logging camps. Here they knock down massive mahogany trees and drag them down the side of steep hills that are impossible for conventional, mechanized logging equipment. Ironically these animals are very well suited to the task of destroying their own habitat. I'll admit I knew nothing about this before coming here. 

Some of the “mahout,” or elephant handlers working in parks like this learned their craft in illegal logging camps so are not crazy about having a lens on them. 

Organizations like the Nam Ou Sanctuary offer constructive employment to the villages nearby and the park has proven to be a good thing for the local economy. Because land and animal conservation are not traditionally held values, it’s only through education and showing people alternative practices that long-term sustainability will be achieved. I’ve ascertained from those on the front lines that it’s a depressing uphill battle.

Elephants in Laos don't get a name until they’re 3 years old. This little one was born at Nam Ou Sanctuary and will be “Naughty Baby Elephant” for another year.

Had she the unfortunate luck to have been born in a logging camp, next year upon receiving her name she’d be taken from her mother and then tortured for several years to completely break her spirit. Essentially elephants in logging camps are used as living tractors and worked just as hard. The process used to get them to his state of servile submission is an absolutely brutal one that results in these animals being terrified of any human. It can often take years before a rescue is able to be shown to visitors. 

The elephants at Nam Ou are all female rescues aged 20-45 or were born at the sanctuary. The process of getting an elephant here is costly, time intensive, and dangerous. It involves going to an illegal camp numerous times and observing the elephants working there. The management will always try and sell animals that are on the verge of death so sanctuaries with limited resources try and purchase ones not beyond rehabilitation. It's about 80,000 USD for one elephant and the price is going up as zoos in China and Korea are becoming more popular domestic tourist destinations. The sad reality is that these animals are much safer here in captivity than if left in the wild where they would certainly be poached or end up in a logging camp.

Part of the experience here is taking a short ride on the elephant with a mahout. It’s an amazing sensation feeling your bare foot against the elephant’s massive head. 

I was initially skeptical but having such close contact with an endangered animal really does change your perception about their situation. It makes you care more. If most people alive could have this experience, it would likely improve elephant welfare worldwide. Such a shame that for most, a picture in a book or magazine is all they'll ever know about these remarkable creatures. This park is very concerned with their animal's well being and only allows them to be ridden for one hour at a time twice a day. Some of these parks, those in Thailand in particular, put their animals under too much stress so I recommend researching any company in Asia offering “wildlife experiences” before giving them your money.

After the ride the elephants are guided down to the Mekong River for a refreshing dip. 

If ever in Laos, which is the most amazing country in Southeast Asia, I can’t recommend a visit to this elephant sanctuary enough. The organization responsible for the the Nam Ou park is doing excellent work in a totally unscrupulous business. Awareness doesn’t change anything unfortunately but is the only place to start.


In Documentary Photography, Travel Writing, Travel Photography, Photo Essay Tags Animal Welfare, Asia, Laos
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